Iris Cendré

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All about this fragrance

Vibe check

A quiet conversation after coming in from the cold, with a leather coat still over the chair: the green iris and incense retain an austere edge while creamy orris and tobacco lend warmth at close quarters. Its register is composed and slightly nostalgic, without turning soft or sweet.

How to wear

Cool to mild weather suits the contrast between brisk citrus, smoky incense and creamy orris. Start with one or two sprays on skin and let the opening settle before adding more. A restrained application keeps the powdery, tobacco–amber warmth close; in warmer conditions, use a lighter hand.

Who it’s for

For those who enjoy rooty iris, violet powder and incense more than plush floral sweetness. Its smoky, leathery undertones will appeal to wearers drawn to vintage perfume textures, but who prefer an iris with earthy tension rather than a purely cosmetic softness.

Release year

2015

The nose

Julien Rasquinet is known for richly textured compositions, with a particular command of smoke, leather, woods and amber. Trained under Pierre Bourdon, he has created fragrances for independent houses and established luxury brands; his work for Naomi Goodsir also includes Bois d’Ascèse and Cuir Velours. In Iris Cendré, he brings that smoky vocabulary to orris, balancing its cool, rooty character with creamy warmth.

Collaborators

Naomi Goodsir and co-founder Renaud Coutaudier helped shape the creative brief: an iris with velvety richness that remained rooty and smoky rather than excessively powdery. Their direction sought to move iris beyond conventionally feminine associations, giving Rasquinet a material-focused concept aligned with the house’s aesthetic.

Naomi Goodsir’s story

Naomi Goodsir approaches perfume as an invisible accessory, carrying the texture and individual character of her design work. The independent house builds fragrances around distinctive materials and close collaboration with perfumers, releasing according to inspiration rather than trends. Production and hand-packing take place near Grasse.

Iris Cendré’s concept

Conceived around “Memories of orris ashes,” Iris Cendré places green, creamy iris butter within incense smoke and warmer tobacco–amber facets. Rasquinet wanted an iris that belonged to the house’s smoky, leather-inflected identity. After a year of development and repeated returns to the first trial, the team chose that original version for release.

Extra info

Iris Cendré received a nomination for the French FiFi Awards’ Experts Award in 2016. Its name evokes ashen iris, matching the central contrast of orris and smoke. Goodsir and Coutaudier later described the smoky note in Nuit de Bakélite as a nod to Rasquinet’s work for the house, specifically discussing Iris Cendré.