A soft veil of smoke slowly settles over the darkness. Cinnamon and black pepper sharpens the silhouette, dry wisps of elemi and incense unfold, rosemary anchors. Leather, woods and earthy tones seep in with silent depth. By the end, a restrained warmth lingers like an afterglow. All Black reveals without showing.
Best SHADID by Tauer Perfumes Alternatives & Similar Perfumes
SHADID by Tauer Perfumes is an oriental fragrance defined by its rich, animalic castoreum layered with spicy coriander and earthy nagarmotha. It unfolds with creamy sandalwood and warm ambergris, softened by smooth cedarwood and a hint of vanilla sweetness. Those drawn to scents that balance leathery, smoky intensity with subtle gourmand touches should focus on the interplay of castoreum, ambergris, and vanilla for a similar olfactory experience.
Beaver Maple Edition by Zoologist £166.67
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- sandalwood
- vanilla
- Aromagroups:
- edible
- woody
Sun-drenched spring air infuses the tangle of timbers the beavers call home, inviting the family to venture from their cozy den. A sparse winter diet of dry buds and twigs gives way to a juicy salad of fresh waterlilies and leaves. The drive to build is awakened and soon the industrious carpenters are hard at work. Yet over the rustle of branches and the slapping of tails on wet mud, a hammering is heard. In a nearby maple forest, farmers tap thick trunks, creating channels through which sugar-laden sap can flow. Unfazed, the beavers toil on. In tandem they work, the beavers crafting lodges while farmers harvest sweet sap, guiding it to a sugar shack where alchemy will transform it to a rich, golden syrup.
Evoking the onset of spring, Zoologist Beaver Maple Edition combines fresh florals with the delightful sweetness of cocoa-infused maple syrup. Within smoky woods laced with earthy vetiver and patchouli, castoreum and vanilla offer a cozy haven. Like a carefully-crafted lodge of a beaver family, this scent offers warmth while hinting at hidden depths.
Honey and Tar by Anna Zworykina £79.17
- Key notes:
- birch tar
- castoreum
- honey
- leather
- smoke
- vanilla
- Aromagroups:
- edible
- leather
- woody
A rich, smoky blend of honey, tar, vanilla and incense.
The perfumer leaves the perfume plot sketchy - to be completed by your imagination. Are you in your autumn apiary watching honey trickle into jars, smoke lingering in the air from bonfires of fallen leaves? Are you on the well-tarred deck of a merchant ship carrying huge barrels of honey? This beautiful, smoky fragrance will definitely take you somewhere.
Starring
(these fragrant materials reanacted the Honey and Tar story):
castoreum tinctura
benzoin absolute
birch tar essential oil
Himalayan cedarwood essential oil
sweet myrrh essential oil
vetiver essential oil
guayak wood
agarwood essential oil
Atlas cedarwood essential oil
jasmin sambac absolute
hops CO2
lavender absolute
patchouli essential oil
cardamom absolute
tonka bean absolute
vanilla CO2 extract
orris root CO2 extract
Vanuatu sandalwood essential oil
Royal Hawaiian sandalwood essential oil
Important notice:
Anna Zworykina’s blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes). Her blends are sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).
Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in her 100% natural perfumes may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Anna Zworykina’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). This said, Anna Zworykina has acquired a huge fan base over many years and people interacted with her blends for quite a while now. We are not aware of any reports of any skin reactions so far.
However, Anna advises that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.
Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Anna’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.
Agrani by Byermia £100.00
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- cocoa
- leather
- oud
- tobacco
- Aromagroups:
- edible
- leather
- vintage/old school
- woody
The word “agrani” in Sanskrit means a leader, a trailblazer, and this perfume embodies the life stages of a leader. The opening burst of cherry, almond and saffron symbolises the mesmerising oratory skills that rally the masses. The heart reveals the power of pipe tobacco and leather, expressing a leader’s fearless revolutionary spirit. Enveloping musk and Burmese oud summons the hope they bring during challenging times. The cacao and castoreum base evokes the lasting impact they have on the world, leaving an indelible impression. And finally, the warmth of amber echoes the rays of hope a leader ignites in future generations.
All Black by Insenf £104.17
- Key notes:
- black pepper
- castoreum
- gaiac / guaiac wood
- incense
- rosemary
- tobacco
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- leather
Cuir de Russie by Anna Zworykina £108.33
- Key notes:
- birch tar
- castoreum
- leather
- smoke
- Aromagroups:
- leather
- vintage/old school
- woody
With natural perfumes colour may and WILL vary from batch to batch.
For example, the current batch of Cuir de Russie is not as dark in colour as the previous run because the tea extract in the new batch is decolorized. This does NOT affect the aroma/effect at all.
A classic vintage chypre by design and by make Anna's Cuir de Russie is smoky, animalic and true to the early 20th century recipe.
The story of this smoky leather perfume style starts with Russian Cossacks' cavalry entering Paris to make sure the French army definetly got back home. Parisians were very much impressed by the Siberian warriors, their uniforms trimmed with beaver fur, the smoky leather of their boots (treated with tar for waterproof effect) and had a bit of an olfactive cultural shock.
French being French, they noted the whole expereince in a perfume style called Cuir de Russie. Coco Chanel later brought this style back into the spotlight to reflect on her affair with a Russian grand duke Dmitri Pavlovich (Tsar Nicholas II’s cousin).
Starring
(these fragrant materials reanacted the Cuir de Russie story):
acacia farnesiana essential oil
lemon essential oil
bergamot essential oil
birch tar essential oil
yuzu essential oil
galbanum CO2 extract
orange blossom absolute
jasmin sambac absolute
rose de May absolute
ylang-ylang absolute
jasmin auriculatum absolute
tuberose absolute
clove absolute
castoreum tinctura
black tea absolute
cognac white essential oil
tabacco absolute
Vetiver essential oil
sandalwood CO2 extract
vanilla CO2 extract
artemisia absinthium essential oil
Vietnamese agarwood essential oil
oakmoss absolute
ambrette CO2 extract
patchouli essential oil
labdanum absolute
Vanuatu sandalwood essential oil
Please note: 15 ml and 10ml EdPs come with a spray and the 4.5 ml perfume comes in a tiny splash bottle.
Important notice:
Anna Zworykina’s blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes). Her blends are sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).
Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in her 100% natural perfumes may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Anna Zworykina’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). This said, Anna Zworykina has acquired a huge fan base over many years and people interacted with her blends for quite a while now. We are not aware of any reports of any skin reactions so far.
However, Anna advises that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.
Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Anna’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.
Hyrax by Zoologist £166.67
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- civet
- hyraceum
- saffron
- whisky
- Aromagroups:
- leather
- vintage/old school
- woody
Perfumer: Sven Pritzkoleit
It's a dramatic animalic dry leather. Smell the artistic take on the hyraceum aroma (a larger than life fantasy) in this perfume and also if you visit us at Covent Garden, you can discover how natural hyraceum smells. We have a piece of this ancient fascinating material for educational purposes.
Sven used natural hyraceum as obtaining this material does not involve any animal cruelty (please see below). However, the perfumer purposeley enhanced most of the nuances of natural hyraceum to dramatic proportions: animalic, urinous, leathery, ambery and barnyard.
***
What is hyraceum?
Hyraceum is the fossilized urine of hyraxes Bloom's specimen (available to smell at our Covent Garden store) came from a mountainous area in South Africa and was harvested by local tribesmen from a hyrax’s urinal area in an ancient cave (as communal animals they have a designated communal loo - latrine). Hyraceum is exclusively fossilized urine deposits (no feces). As many desert plants and animals have water saving habits – hyraxes’ urine is not a liquid. They excrete jelly-like urine that dries in the sun to a stone.
The specimen was procured with the expert assistance of The Rising Phoenix Perfumery and could be thousands of years old.
Naju Spring by Pictura Fragrans £125.00
- Key notes:
- almond
- castoreum
- hinoki
- matcha
- rice
- Aromagroups:
- edible
- leather
A perfume inspired by a spring picnic in Naju, South Korea, known for its pears, lush forests and blossoming Buddhist gardens. The opening of matcha tea, pear ice cream, ginger and almond evokes a picnic on pagoda steps. Delving deeper, jasmine, hinoki wood and toasted rice envelop the senses. Woolly castoreum and a meaty accord of goji gui offer a surprisingly savoury drydown.
Stone Cap: 100% rose quartz
Nerosa by Laboratorio Olfattivo £100.00
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- chypre
- geranium
- labdanum
- leather
- oud
- rose
- Aromagroups:
- floral
- green
- spicy
David Maruitte
“Nerosa is a perfume realized with David Maruitte in 2011, but at that time we believed that Laboratorio Olfattivo was not yet ready to launch a fragrance like this. Today instead, Nerosa can perfectly enter in our Black Collection, thanks to the depth, wealth and strength of its formula. A fragrance whose energy is noticeable and whose enveloping sillage is strong.”
Roberto Drago
Young Cossack by Anna Zworykina £79.17
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- hay
- leather
- oakmoss
- smoke
- thyme
- tobacco
- vetiver
- wormwood
- Aromagroups:
- leather
- woody
Ты меня не бойся,
Я тебя не трону,
Ты не беспокойся.
***
An intense, smoky herbal blend that, like all of Anna's creations, will transport you to an imaginary landscape.
It's inspired by Cossacks, the soldier-farmers who live in the steppes in the south of Russia, accomplished horsemen guarding the borders since the days of Catherine the Great.
You are welcome to devise your own story, but here at Bloom, we imagine a young Cossack resting among haystacks and wild herbs, smoking his clay pipe while contemplating the starry sky. His friends are sitting by the open fire nearby. Smoke is wafting through wild thyme and wormwood.
Starring
(these fragrant materials reanacted the Young Cossack story):
galbanum CO2 extract
artemisia annia essential oil
artemisia absinthium essential oil
immortel absolute
Seville lavender abs
thyme essential oil
tarragon essential oil
davana essential oil
guayak wood essential oil.
rose de May absolute
Morrocan rose absolute
cumin CO2 extract
frankincense absolute
petitgrain essential oil
geranium leaves absolute
myrth essential oil
costus absolute
oakmoss absolute
patchouli essential oil
labdanum absolute
tabacco absolute
tonka bean absolute
agarwood essential oil
vetiver essential oil
castoreum tinctura
Important notice:
Anna Zworykina’s blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes). Her blends are sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).
Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in her 100% natural perfumes may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Anna Zworykina’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). This said, Anna Zworykina has acquired a huge fan base over many years and people interacted with her blends for quite a while now. We are not aware of any reports of any skin reactions so far.
However, Anna advises that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.
Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Anna’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.
Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne £195.83
- Key notes:
- cardamom
- coriander
- hemlock
- oud
- sandalwood
- Aromagroups:
- spicy
- woody
Ormonde Man, a most sophisticated fragrance, despite its unconventional ingredients. Complex and full of character, sultry and mystical, the fragrance exudes soft woody notes, but it is the infusion of Oudh oil, the world’s most prized essence since time immemorial, that sets it apart, elevating the scent to one of true distinction.
About SHADID by Tauer Perfumes
- How does SHADID differ from these similar fragrances?
- SHADID uniquely balances castoreum with coriander, nagarmotha, ambergris, and vanilla to create a refined oriental blend. Many listed fragrances focus more heavily on smoky, leathery, or sweet interpretations of castoreum, but SHADID’s use of spices and resinous woods gives it a distinct complexity.
- What is castoreum and why is it significant in these perfumes?
- Castoreum is a resinous secretion from beaver glands, valued in perfumery for its rich, leathery, and animalic aroma. It adds depth and warmth, often lending a sensual and primal character to oriental and leather fragrances.
- Are these fragrances suitable for both day and night wear?
- Most fragrances listed lean towards richer, animalic, or smoky profiles typically suited for evening wear. However, some like Sous Le Pont Mirabeau or Nerosa, with fresher or lighter notes, can work well during the day depending on personal preference.









