Best Contre-Jour by Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums Alternatives & Similar Perfumes

“Every man is a divinity in disguise, a god playing the fool.”

Ralph Waldo Emerson

***

Le Mat explodes with sweet earth, heaven-sent patchouli anchoring a sensual chypré homage of rosa centifolia from Grasse, the strange complexities of immortelle, cloves, black pepper and Egyptian geranium.  A talisman of balsamic blessed absolution that will boldly defend mind and body.

A perfume of divination and tarotology. Le Mat, the Fool, Jester and Journeyman, also a symbol of chance, enigma and propulsion, end and beginning. It’s a card of 0 and XXII, a powerful icon of the Major Arcana, cards of symbols and numbers that portend future and fate.  We must turn over cards and accept fate, walk forward into new futures, lives and loves. We may not have all the tools for survival, but we have hope and defiance.

A sylvan dream mixed from oakmoss, resins, orris and sparks of cinnamon.

***

Inspired by Vaslav Nijinski, created in collaboration with Mx Justin Vivian Bond

In 1912, when Nijinsky danced the story in Paris, he created a scandal.  Shameless, the critics declared. The carnal subtext of Mallarme’s poem had become an explicit expression of a sexual appetite. The ballet went beyond the sensual to a demonstration of powerful virility.

In this scent, find the relationship between the suggestive fantasy and the seductive reality. Then go ahead and make your own scandal.

Leaning against the bar of your argentine café you invited me to dance a tango. The wooden floor vibrated under the shock of our heels, and as you lent me backwards the sultry, spicy notes of your hot skin caressed my own.

Strength and sensuality. The duality of black and red. The fragrance evokes passion, energy, ardor and the languid spirit of dance. It is constructed around the immortelle (with the evocative latin name of “golden sun”) and opens with the strong, energetic scent of immortelle and indian tuberose absolutes. These are lightened by an aqua flora captive merged with the soft notes of sandalwood. At its base a magnificent, creamy, natural vanilla seals the romance.

Matilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon I, was known for her breasts (“le plus beau décolleté”) and her talent as a painter. She also hosted a celebrated 19th-century Parisian salon attended by the greatest artists and writers of her time. This namesake perfume is an olfactory salon of provocative white florals (ylang-ylang, narcissus, jasmine) given tropical succulence with passion fruit and papaya. Mathilde’s heady brightness is softened by iris and sandalwood.

In Sanskrit, “ankura” refers to the sprouting or budding of a plant. It can also signify the seed of an idea or feeling. This uplifting green chypre teases feelings into play with its sunny opening of lemon, bergamot, mint, and the honeyed spice of helichrysum flower. Oakmoss brings shade and mystery, accompanying an earthy blend of patchouli, sage and soil tincture. At its full bloom, the smoky allure of Prachinburi oud fills the soul, turning Ankura into an enchanted forest.

Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet

Touchable, lickable, snuggable: that’s you after a misting of this sexy suede. A rich resinous leather blend, laced with wisps of chocolatey immortelle.

A rustic sauna on a windswept beach. Outside, the air carries salty ocean waves and the bitter burnt wood of extinguished bonfires. Inside, there’s mineral steam, herbal tinctures and damp skin. Rare ambergris and a cluster of exotic ouds suggest seaweed, leather and sex.

Limited to 40 bottles 58% extrait.

Blended with

Natuna wild oud,
Pontianak wild oud,
Vintage Merauke wild oud,
Ambergris absolute,
Immortelle essential oil,
Myrrh tincture,
Okoume tincture,
Buckwheat tincture,
Caper absolute,
Marigold absolute,
Aloe resin tincture,
Salsola soda tincture,
Seaweed absolute,
Onycha absolute,
Robinia pseudoacacia tincture,
Gardenia absolute,
Jasmine sambac absolute,
Myrtle tincture,
Citron essential oil

Important notice:

Zanini blends are living botanical compositions, crafted entirely from natural materials and free from synthetic fixatives or stabilizers. As with all things living, subtle variations are part of their nature: over time, you may notice a gentle evolution in colour, texture, or the appearance of natural sediment. These are not imperfections, but part of the character of the raw materials themselves.

These blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes) and sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).

Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in Zanini’s 100% natural blends may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Zanini’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). 

Zanini advise that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.

Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Zanini’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.

In the garden of the Gods, at the edge of the world, embark upon a search for hidden treasure. Lose yourself amongst the intoxicating scents of the mysterious vegetation: enchanting flowers, fragrant woods, mystical plants, exalted by the heat of a divine sun. 

From the heart of the Mediterranean scrub, where the air hums with resin and sun-drenched leaves, Ladano rises — a fragrance shaped by the slow pulse of Cistus ladanifer. For centuries, this golden resin has been gathered from the wool of animals, breathing its scent into fabric and skin. Here, labdanum glows rather than burns — thick, balsamic, embracing. It’s animated by tickly aromatics: licorice, celery seed, cinnamon leaf and immortelle.